Christ Church, Short Hills’ Choir Residency at St. Mary’s Cathedral, Edinburgh

Edinburgh is consistently ranked among the most beautiful cities in the world – stone streets winding through the medieval Old Town, elegant Georgian squares in the New Town, and above it all, the dramatic rise of Edinburgh Castle. Against this skyline, another landmark soars: the 295-foot spire of St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral, the tallest building in Edinburgh.

This July, under the direction of Dr. Andrew Moore, our 28-member Christ Church Choir had the honor of serving as resident choir at St. Mary’s. Dr. Brian Harlow accompanied us on the organ, allowing Dr. Moore to lead us in preparing for the daily services. Friends, family, and choir “alumni” rounded out our traveling group to nearly 40.

The Scottish Episcopal Church, to which St. Mary’s belongs, has a special connection to our own Episcopal Church. In fact, the first American bishop, Samuel Seabury, was consecrated by Scottish bishops in 1784. In Scotland today, where most churches are Presbyterian, the Episcopal Church feels a bit set apart, but it continues to uphold a proud tradition of worship and music.

Evensong – the Service of Evening Prayer set to music – has been part of that tradition since the 16th century. At St. Mary’s, it is offered daily, making it the only cathedral in all of Scotland to do so. Singing in that space, designed with music in mind, was exhilarating. The sound of our voices rose to meet the tones of the great Harrison & Harrison organ, in us since 1931.

Our repertoire during the week included psalms, settings of the Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis, and anthems by composers ranging from William Byrd to Stephen Paulus. Much of our music was intentionally contemporary American, including works commissioned for Christ Church by Alfred Fedak, as well as pieces like Robert Hugh’s Lovely Tear and Paulus’s The Road Home. Our Scottish hosts especially welcomed hearing this American canon, a refreshing change from the familiar repertoire.

Each evening service carried its own character, yet all invited us into the rhythm of prayer and song that has sustained the Anglican tradition for centuries.

St. Mary’s itself is a place of beauty and history. Designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, its three spires include the twin towers “Barbara” and “Mary,” named for the Walker sisters whose generosity made the Cathedral possible. Inside, the Song School is decorated with murals by Phoebe Anna Traquair, while the Millennium Window by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi is a striking modern touch.

After evensong, the new café in the Cathedral gardens offered a quick snack or drink, while Ringing the Changes, a striking banner installation, celebrated the art of bellringing.

While we sang in the afternoons, our mornings were filled with explorations: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Stirling Castle, the Glenturret Distillery, and a day trip to St. Andrews and Falkland, a village in the royal burgh of Fife. Along the way, there were tastings of fine Scotch whisky, plenty of fish and chips, and even opportunities for the adventurous to sample haggis. In the evenings, many of us found our way to the Edinburgh food scene and pubs alive with traditional Scottish music, where fiddles, pipes, and song carried late into the night.

“It was a deeply spiritual experience to sing and worship six times in six days at a vibrant, urban Cathedral! The clergy were welcoming and offered moving meditations. We were grateful to share this 21st century pilgrimage with Christ Church, family, and friends through social media and livestream.”
The Rev. Bowie Snodgrass, Rector of Christ Church

This Edinburgh trip also marked our third international residency abroad. Our first was to Bristol in 2016, followed by Salisbury in 2023, and now Edinburgh in 2025.

“I find these residencies transformative for the choir in several ways.
We gain perspective on the wide expanse of time that evensong has been sung and gain a greater appreciation for the wideness of the Anglican Communion.
I find that after the rigor of singing daily, we become better musicians, better listeners, and closer colleagues.”
Dr. Andrew Moore, Choirmaster & Organist

What made the trip most memorable, though, was the community it fostered. Traveling together, sharing meals, exploring new places, and of course, singing side by side each day drew us closer as a choir and as a parish family. In the end, it was less about any one castle, concert, or cathedral spire, and more about the joy of being together – raising up music, faith, and friendship in what is truly one of the world’s most beautiful cities.